#4 - (Online) Shopping Mantras
Hot to build your wardrobe, how to shop well online...plus cool Korean brands
Ciao!
In the last couple of weeks, I have been asked a few times what my approach to shopping is: where do I start, where do I find things, how do I prioritize what to buy and when, and how to be smart in my purchases.
I am clearly very passionate about this topic, so this week’s newsletter will be centered around this rather than my usual weekly research. You’ll still find some cool pieces (spoiler, cool Korean brands focus) and some Ugly Elevator looks - scroll to the bottom!
If you need to build your wardrobe from scratch, start here.
If you already have a good wardrobe, skip this and jump to the ‘Shopping mantras and tips’ section, where I explore how to buy smart and love what you have.
If you don’t need any of this, but just some inspiration, jump to the Cool Things and Ugly Elevator looks!
How to get started
1. Current wardrobe in depth review
You probably feel like you hate everything you own, and can’t pull an outfit together. However, there will be few items that you actually love and wear all the time. Keep these, you won’t have to buy them again. Everything else is donated or sold.
A good rule of thumb is ‘how many times have I worn this in the last year?’ if the answer is less than 10, then time to let that piece of clothing go.
This is a ONE OFF exercise. From this moment onward, everything bought should last a veeeeery loooooong time and be worn countless times.
2. Start from the basics
I know, this sounds like a cliche, one could arguably start from the more interesting and particular things but then it would be very hard to build a well rounded wardrobe (and probably more expensive and more time consuming).
So back to basics. There are two categories:
1. Clothing
2. Bags, Shoes, Accessories AND Coats
Clothing
Start with simple and ‘neutral’ items that you can wear over and over again, of good quality and reasonable cost.
For Autumn/Winter and cross seasonal my top must have basics are:
Denim: Black/ Grey, Blue, and a light one. 100% cotton, no synthetic. Obviously Levi’s, and Wandler (good selection on Amazon), Re/Done (good selection on The Outnet) and Wandler
Trousers: one good pair of black tailored trousers. Bonus one is Navy or Anthracite. If you like pleats
Shirts: a couple of good quality, 100% cotton simple shirts. OVERSIZE / a bit slouchy, not super tailored. White, light blue or striped
Tees: white/light tees. Thick cotton (alternative and alternative)
Light jumpers: to wear alone or under a blazer (alternative)
One blazer: if of good quality, these are necessarily a bit expensive. I’d start with a dark gray or black one
Knitwear: wool, Merino or cashmere. A good one will last forever if you take care of it
Skirts: one mini, one long. I’d start with basic materials such as wool because it goes with everything, I’d keep more interesting material for later as a bonus (leather, satin etc.). So many alternatives here
Bonus:
going out tops (but you don’t need 100000 black cropped tops I promise). brands: Woodrose Deli, The Line by K, Paloma Wool, Gimaguas, Carmen Says, 8 by Yoox, Musier Paris, Orseund Iris, gauge81, St Agni
ONE dress. Not necessary, you can create a dress with the skirts and the tops. Musier Paris, Aftersight studio and St Agni have nice options
Of course, buying all of this in one go can be quite expensive, but Rome wasn’t built in a day so just start with what you feel like you’re lacking the most. These few pieces should cover almost any occasion you might have (work, free time, going out etc.). Now, this might seem a bit boring, and here category 2 comes into play.
Bags, Shoes, Accessories AND Coats
Items in this category are generally more expensive. However, once bought of good quality and craftsmanship they will 1. Elevate any look, even the most basic one (read blue jeans and white tee from above) and 2. Last forever, you’ll really get good use out of them. For Autumn/winter I would start with:
Shoes:
some ‘open’ flats to wear with and without socks (moccasins, loafers, ballerinas - If you have budget Mansur Gavriel, Marialuca and Le Monde Beryl)
Mid heel boots so you can use them both during the day to run errands and at night to go out). Can be either ankle, calf and knee high, but be conscious that they need to fit under your trousers. There are plenty of options including second hand and local leather shops, but I particularly love Aeyde, Miista (some models only), Dear Frances and by Far
Bonus: knee high boots if you already got a calf/ankle one, a good pair of heels. Bonus because if you buy good mid heel boots, you can probably wear them as heels as well.
Yep, I haven’t included sneakers. I do not love sneakers so I don’t have good recs, but I would keep it simple like these (many very similar alternatives) - I like the gum sole
One LONG LONG LONG coat, dark. No beige colors, they’re harder to wear and they get easily stained. You need this coat to cover you running to work, on public transport, when it’s pouring, going to the club. There are obviously a lot of very good second hand options.
One everyday bag that ideally fits a laptop, black or dark brown. Again let’s be pragmatic and avoid the light colors that get easily scratched.
One cute going out bag (small/sparkly/fun) - I really like these!
Now, you’re covered. You can go everywhere and do anything and you’ll always have something to wear.
How to continue - Shopping Mantras and Tips
Once the above is done, you can start buying more different / fun pieces.
And here come other challenges:
How do new items fit in your wardrobe and style?
How to buy smart?
How to adapt trends to your own taste?
How to make the most out of these new purchases?
How to not end up in the same situation you started from?
Below are some Mantras and Tips on how I do it.
Mindset
If you’re not 100% convinced of your purchase, always return. You can think about it or find a better alternative later. Do not regret keeping something.
Take a step back and do not give in the the impulse of buying: I ask myself
Will I like this on me, or do I just like it on others?
Will I like this on me, or is it just the way the item is shown online (styling, lighting, photoshop etc.)
Try not to give in to current trends, or at least question whether these trend 1. fit with your personal style and wardrobe 2. Are micro trends that will pass in a few months.
Try to choose things that can be leveraged as much as possible, and that are versatile among seasons or situations. I ask Can I dress this up or down? Can I wear it in spring, autumn and winter?
Practical tips
Wait to buy. If after at least 2 weeks you still need/want that item, then it makes it to your shopping list - but don’t buy it yet!
Structure your shopping list: Keep a ‘Need’ list and a ‘Wish’ list.
As per the name, absolutely necessary things (see my list above). Prioritize the Need list, over time as you buy your basics, the need list should decrease massively
Within the Wish list, prioritize items that you can get the most use out of (do you really need a lilac fur coat with rhinestones? Or maybe you could get more out of an structured oversized camel coat?)
When you get it wrong, understand why, take (mental) notes and remember why it did not work for you. Avoid future mistakes.
Never buy full price! This is one of the big advantages of online shopping. You can always find it somewhere second hand or on sale. If you cannot find it now, wait a bit and you will find what you want at a better price later on.
When you get your item , try it on with different outfits. See how you could style it with as many items in your wardrobe as possible. You can’t? return it!
Always check if duties are included, and return policies
For vintage/second hand:
use sizes just as a very high level guideline, then use measurements (use a measuring tape and take yours)
Ask measurements and for more pictures
Read the composition
Do not underestimate the power of tailoring and shoe repairs! Things can be fixed and improved. This is true for new items as well
However, be conscious some very used items might be very delicate, so you might no be able to get all the use you want out of them
Where to shop
All the luxury e-retail platforms. These provide easy shipping and returns, generally good customer service, duties generally included in final price, and always some discounts or promo code going on. Subscribe to their loyalty programmes as there are additional discounts or advantages.
Farfetch, Matches, MyTheresa, 24S, Luisaviaroma, Browns, Net a Porter, Ssense, Cettire, Flannels
Online outlets: The Outnet (fewer items, but generally good level), Yoox (this is extremely chaotic and not great from an UX perspective, but you can find crazy deals and bargains)
Vintage stores: Vinted, Vestiaire Collective, The Real Real, The Vintage Bar, Open for Vintage, Silk Store, Imperfaite Paris, The Millenial Decorator, Sign of The Times, Loop Generation.. There are thousands of options here
Local artisans and manufacturers! Especially in Italy, you can find super high quality leather goods, shoes, knits.. Visit your local mercerie too!
Need Inspiration? Cool things below
second female knit dress (and this coat for the basics!)
Emme parsons T strap kitten heel in the colour of the seasons
Spotlight (some cool) Korean brands:
Facade Pattern - minimalist and effortless
Marge sherwood bags
Low classic - this skirt
Wooyoungmi - exactly this shade of brown
Andersson Bell - especially this skirt and OPEN YY - especially this bag. Both not my style, but a lot of interesting looks
Reike nen - especially these butter yellow boots
From the Ugly Elevator (and not only)
New fav boots from Aeyde, tote for like Aesther Ekme
All black - Vintage belt, numeroventuno pants (I got them at 85% off from Yoox), Aesther Ekme tote (wearing it everyday), Cos Jumper, Dear Frances mules (not available anymore, good alternative
The Belle et Bon Bon sequin skirt! To wear with a jumper and knee high boots - perfect for a night out. Similar ones here
Ciao!